Inside Tokyo’s Yoyogi National Gymnasium on Wednesday, Marni debuted a maximalist Fall/Winter 2023 collection filled with powerful, punchy, and oftentimes avant-garde silhouettes. To the sounds of the Tokyo Chamber Orchestra, directed by Dev Hynes, creative director Francesco Risso set his designs in motion through a 1,800-person crowd and an arena that he had wrapped entirely in stark-white paper.
At each seat, Risso left a handwritten note for showgoers to mull over prior to the show’s commencement. In it, he wrote, “Why do I make clothes? Because they’re our companions, and there’s more to them than just air kisses. I don’t know if I make clothes that people need, or if I make clothes that need people, or if I make clothes for the people that I urgently need to need the clothes that need them…What I do know is that today we need less and less clothes that are needless.”
On the runway, the collection’s color palette was rather simple, consisting of just black, white, yellow and red. Silhouettes spanned a spectrum, with some small and figure-forming and others rounded and drama-inducing. Tailoring came oversized in many ensembles, though most often on blazers and coats. Knitwear was a constant, offering puffed-up, mohair sweaters, duvet-like coats, billowing pants and dainty dresses.
Polka dots, oftentimes reminiscent of Yayoi Kusama’s works, proved to be a central motif for Marni FW23. Similarly, simple grid patterns controlled numerous statement pieces in different fabrications. Square-shouldered dresses and sharply-cut coats sat opposite from casually-draped puffers and rounded tops. Overall, the collection was both formulaic and fluid, showcasing Risso’s ambidexterity.
Peruse Marni’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection in the gallery above.
In more fashion news, Stüssy’s Spring 2023 collection packs a vibrant punch in streetwear.
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